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New PROGRESSION training board in The Wave

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Are you looking to get strong?

Spanish 8c superclimber Eva Lopez has developed a unique fingerboard and published training information on how to use it. We've mounted the Progression Training Board in The Wave area and will be posting her training recommendations alongside it. She's published a research paper on finger strength training and has an excellent blog (English version / Spanish version) with lots of training information and videos for improving both your mental and physical conditioning.

The board has progressively smaller edges to help you train strength and endurance at the optimal level.

From Eva's blog:

How do I know if  progression® is the ideal fingerboard for me?

It will be if you want to begin serious finger training and you meet the following requisites:

  • You have been climbing for more than 2 years, on a weekly basis, and without major interruptions;
  • You are older than 16 (Morrison and Schöffl, 2007);

You will benefit in particular if you have a low or medium level of finger strength determined by whether you can hang:

  • more than 15 seconds from a 24mm-deep edge,
  • less than 35 seconds from a 20mm edge
  • and less than 10 seconds from a 10mm edge.

Are there other climbing-specific training aids that you'd like to see around the centre? Email us at nowaythats5a@castle-climbing.co.uk