Climbing Grades

As many people are aware, the grading of routes is very subjective and can quite often be controversial. Any climber that climbs at a range of venues outdoors knows that grades vary from crag to crag.

A grading system is purely a way of getting an idea of what to expect if you try a certain climb. Despite the fact that grading at different crags around the country is slightly different, all the climbs at any one crag are reasonably consistent with each other.

At The Castle our aim is to achieve consistent grading throughout the centre to give people an idea of what to expect if they were to try any particular route in the centre. Our approach to achieving this is to have every new route tested by several different members of staff. However, because the grading of routes will always be controversial we have the 'No Way That's 5a' book at the centre or you could e-mail us at . Through this you can voice your opinion about the grades you think are incorrect.

If the grade of a climb is disputed then we will take a second look at the climb and reassess our first grading to see if it was inconsistent with the rest of the centre's routes or if the individual who wrote it is was having a bad day.

We use the following Grade conversion charts, courtesy of Rockfax:

Glossary

Anchor - A naturally occurring or specially constructed attachment point by which the climber can secure themselves to the cliff. A set of anchors together is sometimes called ‘a Belay’.

To Be Anchored - To be tied on to one or more anchor points and secured to the cliffs. (as above - to be tied into ‘the Belay’.)

To Belay - To manage the rope in such a way that, should the person on the other end fall off, they can be stopped by the rope.

The Belayer - the climber who belays the rope.

Belay Device (Friction device) - Any mechanical device used for belaying or any device which the rope passes through, usually creating a series of bends and thus creating the friction needed for an effective belay.

Carabiner - An aluminium ring with a spring loaded gate. Used to connect the climber’s equipment and protection to a rope. Carabiners come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some have lockable gates by means of a screw. Tested to withstand a force of up to 2 tonnes (about 2 constipated elephants).

HMS (Pear shaped) screw gate carabiner - A large carabiner with a lockable gate which is commonly used in conjunction with a belay device.

Harness - Climbing harnesses are constructed of various types of webbing (fitting around the legs and waist) and are designed to distribute the force generated on the climber’s body in the event of a fall.

Italian Hitch - Friction knot that can be used to belay off an HMS carabiner without a belay device.

Leading - Whenever one is climbing without protection from above (i.e. the rope is below one), one is leading. A climber can lead a route using aid or free climbing protection methods in unison with a belay from a partner below.

Lowering - Being lowered to the ground by a belayer.

Pitch - The distance between stances. ( Also described as one rope length, approx. 50m).

Protection - Refers to the equipment used to provide safety for a climber. There is a large variety in the shapes and sizes of protective equipment. This equipment is used in cracks and fissures that occur naturally in the rock.

Runner - Points of intermediate protection through which the climbing rope is run to limit any falls.

Seconding - The belayer following the leader up a route, taking out his protection as they climb.

Stance - a ledge where there are anchors and where a belay can be arranged.

Sport climbing - Indoor climbing in a controlled atmosphere, for fun or competition. A term used by some to describe modern rock climbing on bolt - protected routes.

Top rope - Having a rope from above. Top roping does not require the use of equipment for protection while climbing, although some equipment may be needed as an anchor to set up a top rope.

Tying in - The attachment of a rope to the climber’s harness.

Climbing Calls

When climbing outside communication is between climbing partners is vitally important. To ensure no misunderstandings take place ‘climbing calls’ are commonly used. Although not all of them apply to indoor climbing, they are useful to know and it is a good habit to get into using them. (Asterisked calls are ones that you should be using).

"Safe" - when the leader has reached the belay stance at the top of a route and is anchored to the cliff. This indicates to the belayer that it is now safe to take the leader off belay. Instead of this call- "Taking in" is sometimes used.

"That’s me" - when leader has taken in all the rope and tension is now on the rope, ready for the belayer to start climbing.

*On Belay* - leader to second to let them know it is safe for them to start climbing. Commonly used in England, also - "Climb when ready".

*Climbing* - Climber informing the belayer they are starting to climb.

*OK * - acknowledgement that the person is about to start climbing

*Take in* - Climber to belayer to ask them to take up any slack in the rope.

*Rope* - when the climber would like the belayer to pay out more rope.

*Off Belay* - belayer to climber to inform the leader that they are no longer on belay.

Other calls

"Tight" - when climber falls.

"Watch me" - indicates that climber may fall.

"Rope below/Rope/below/rock!" - A loud cry to warn others of the rope being thrown down the cliff face, or of anything else falling down, such as a rock.